New York System Hot Wiener

An "All the Way" Gagga!

I grew up eating North Jersey Texas Weiners and I've long been intrigued by the similarities between them and Rhode Island’s ironically named New York System Hot Weiner.

But it wasn't until after I tried the latter, that I realized it's the differences that really turn me on.

Both regional styles of tubular meat smothered with even more meat are served “All the Way.” Both were first sold to mill workers by Greek immigrant cooks in the 1920s and both have geographically misleading names with a legion of fiercely loyal followers.

But they are absolutely not the same!

Rod's Grill in Warren RI

NY System Wieners are colloquially referred to as gaggas, (don't know, didn't ask) and pride themselves in being the anti-hot dog. These tube steaks are made of a mix of prime-quality veal, pork and beef with little filler and typically measure shorter, approx. 4-inches in length. A proper "all the way" gagga is griddled in butter, slid into a steamed, top loading bun and slathered with yellow mustard, a seasoned meat sauce, coarsely chopped white onions with a generous dusting of celery salt. Unlike the equally ambiguously named Coney dog or the aforementioned Texas weiner, the NY System Wiener's unique sauce might look similar, but it's neither a chili nor the typically cinnamon-forward saltsa kima. It's a savory ground beef blend with muted notes of ground ginger, chili powder and other seasonings.

But the thing that really separates this style from other hot dogs in America is the theater behind its preparation, a risky, rapid-fire technique known as up d'arm.

Lights. Camera. Action!

The up d'arm method hasn't changed in decades, aside from the quality of tattooed forearms. Skilled servers at Olneyville New York System are known to stack up to a dozen or more wieners on one arm while methodically applying the toppings with the other. Their dexterity is unmatched as they swipe, ladle and sprinkle their way up the line while hungry patrons anxiously watch like NASCAR fans waiting for a crash. Even if you're not overly hungry, order at least three at a time to properly enjoy the show.

And while I grew up washing my hot dogs down with a sparkling elixir made from tree bark extract, in Rhode Island its proper to pair your wieners with an ice-cold coffee milk. I'm not sure which of those sound weirder, but trust me, there's something about drinking the slightly sweet coffee milk that ties the flavor experience together.

Try them all

The Original New York System at 424 Smith Street in Providence created this style of hot wiener and continues to serve them nearly 100 years later but they are not alone

• Olneyville New York System has popular locations in Providence and Cranston.

  
  

• Rod’s Grille in Warren, RI, has been slinging wieners since 1955. (Pro tip: Rod’s also serves a surprisingly decadent, buttery grilled fruit Danish that’s not to be missed.)

  
  

• Sam’s NY System in Warwick, RI — curiously spelling “wiener” ei instead of ie — has been a fan favorite since 1968.

  
  

• And if you want to try NY System sauce but think a bun is passé, Arigna Irish Pub across the border in Massachusetts serves the Rhode Dog, a coal-fired pizza decked out with all the NY System accoutrement.

This is absolutely worthy of a wiener pilgrimage and is easily on my Mount Rushmore of meat on hot dogs styles.