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Of course, I know that while all hot dogs are sausage, not all sausages are hot dogs. Unless it’s smothered in some sort of meat sauce, then I think we can all agree it becomes a chili dog or one of the many names the meat-on-meat creation goes by. In fact, the Chili Dog Genealogy has all of the intrigue and allure of a multi-generational family tv drama scripted by Taylor Sheridan. You got the sibling rivalry between elders; the ambitious coney dog vs the geographically isolated, Texas Weiner; really more a beta in my opinion. There’s the estranged Michigan Dog, a first cousin, twice removed, that lives in the North Country of New York State and the exotic Spanish Dog whose DNA relation is always a bit sus. And finally, there's the Washington DC Half Smoke, a bigger, thicker coarsely ground blend of pork and beef sausage that identifies as a chili dog when dressed in a fresh fit of mustard, onion and homemade spicy chili; think more chuckwagon than the aromatic Greek Saltsa Kima variation.
Age Before Beauty
There's a lot that we don't know about the Half Smoke. Like Is it named that way because it's half pork and half beef? Or is it because the sausage is initially smoked then griddled before being bunned up. This actually makes a ton of sense and kinda kills the mystery imo. But who knows, maybe it's called a Half Smoke, because it's typically split and halved before the final grill. We do know that Weenie Beenie in Arlington, Va
has been serving North Carolina BBQ and half smokes since 1954 making it older than the iconic Ben's Chili Bowl by 4 years. Originally part of a chain, this surviving stand serves a half smoke & egg breakfast sandwich on toast in addition to their traditional chili variety. This OG sausage has a strong snap due to its thick casing, which is intensified when split and grilled, giving it a tasty but hard chew. The meat chili is married with relish, onion and mustard and is compacted inside a steamed bun.
Along the National Mall, the streets are strewn with food trucks and carts selling everything from poke and kababs to killer guac. Sami's Hot Dog Cart, has been selling Half Smokes in the shadow of the Capitol Building's iconic dome for over 31 years. And while this stop wasn't on my initial tour itinerary, when my foodie pal Chuck messaged me, real time, saying I had to give Sami a visit, I couldn't resist. The all-beef Half Smoke overflowing with his homemade chili, cheese sauce and a line of Sriracha hit the spot. Thanks Chuck, it definitely Didn't Suck.
Saved the Best for Last
In a town full of historical landmarks, Ben's Chili Bowl on U Street is guaranteed to be the tastiest. This iconic eatery has been serving chili and Half Smokes since 1958 when newlyweds Ben and Virginia Ali opened it. It has received legendary status over years while serving presidents, dignitaries, locals and tourists alike. I have to be honest; I was a bit skeptical at first. I've been to my fair share of restaurants that have rested on their laurels and not their food. THIS IS NOT ONE OF THEM. The restaurant is bigger than it looks from the outside. In the front, a long counter with stools looks into the open kitchen a la diner style. On the griddle, sausage begin to burst with juice as they wait to be stuffed and smothered. A cauldron of chili is constantly being scooped and topped with cheese and onion for hungry customers anxiously waiting for their takeout.
The middle is filled with booths and the back of the restaurants gives off Biff Tannen Museum vibes with a big screen tv on a loop of Ben's history, like surviving the riots and curfews after the MLK assassination, a decaying neighborhood that followed, an inconvenient subway expansion and ultimate resurrection. The history lesson and nostalgic video of yesteryear are fun and interesting, and the food more than lives up to the hype. THIS IS THE REASON IT'S WEATHERED 65+ YEARS.
The bowl of chili is served with beans and tastes great, but the chili served on the Half Smoke is made separately. It's beanless and tastes amazing. After one bite, I knew I was eating a Top 3 Chili Dog I ever had. It's spicy, savory and the perfect thickness for a topping and the sausage is smokey and salty with a great firm texture without the added chew.
Half Smoke, a short walk from Ben's offers a number of high-end signature sausage items on their menu. The aptly named Briggs & Co is an elegant, house made sausage topped with bacon, mustard slaw, chili, onion crisps, beer cheese if you want to try something different and take a break from the chili. But you need to get the chili dog first, I insist.
In a town overflowing with pork projects, eating a Half Smoke is the one that is guaranteed to put a smile on your tongue and Ben's should be a must stop on your next visit to the District. For more detailed info and other places to try, Thrillist has a great piece to read.
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