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The Fundamentally Perfect Cheesesteak, But….

  • Writer: Adam Horvath
    Adam Horvath
  • 4 minutes ago
  • 3 min read
House baked seeded roll
House baked seeded roll

A rush of air hit me in the face like an Adam West haymaker. POW. The rich aroma of ribeye and cooked onions snuck into my nostrils, triggering an immediate drool reflex.


Despite being open for more than a decade, this was my first visit to this darling of the social media circuit.

A gaggle of people hovered around the counter—Grubhub drivers, takeout, and a few of us waiting to eat in the small dining room—but somehow the line moved effortlessly. “Cheesesteak with onions, long hots and Cooper Sharp.” I’m normally a wiz-wit kinda guy, but influencers be influencing.


I grabbed my number placard and set up shop at a tight two-top strategically wedged between a family with little kids and a table of growing college boys.


I patiently waited, watching as a Todd—or maybe a Nate—took his first bite of a mammoth sandwich. “Bro?”


His buddy took a bite of his own. His eyes rolled back.


“Bruh.”


I already knew, this was going to be epic.


All That Glitters


Cooper Sharp Glisten
Cooper Sharp Glisten

The anticipation felt like an eternity, but it was only twenty minutes before I was handed a paper plate that could easily hang on the wall of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.


A beautifully seeded roll stared up from the paper plate, bronzed like it had been lounging in the Caribbean sun. Inside was stuffed with a heaping mix of beef, onions and zesty long hots glistening in a creamy Cooper Sharp sweat.


I grabbed a half with both hands and slowly lifted it toward my mouth. I paused for a deep inhale. The delay teased my senses.

I longed for it.


Each bite was an experience. The umami of the seared ribeye. The unctuousness of the cheese coated my tongue. It was impeccably seasoned. Even the onions were chopped with almost suspicious uniformity.


It was perfect.


But this entire time I had an odd feeling—hard to explain. Like I misplaced my wallet or forgot to shut off the stove. Something was amiss. With each chew, the uneasiness grew.

Then it hit me.


Maybe a Little Too Perfect...


Where was the bite with no cheese? The oversized onion that somehow slipped through the chop. The piece of steak left on the griddle forty seconds too long before getting folded back into the pile.

The messy chop.


Come to think of it—where was the attitude when ordering? Why wasn’t I eating this outside on some utilitarian metal picnic table? And why were they being wiped down every time someone left.


It was undeniably delicious. But the whole thing felt like a Stepford cheesesteak—something ChatGPT might engineer as the perfect foodigenous.


It lacked soul.


Listen, I respect the evolution of the sliced beef on a roll made famous at that intersection on Passyunk nearly a century ago. Butchered steak, artisan bread and fancy mornay sauces are great.

But if you only had one shot at eating an authentic cheesesteak in Philadelphia and this, was it, you'd be missing a big chunk of the history.


Jockeying for ordering position at Pat’s. The neon glow across the street at Geno’s.

Dodging the over-served South Street crowd while figuring out your order outside Jim’s.


A cheesesteak isn’t supposed to be something George Jetson pulls out of a Foodarackacyle.

It’s supposed to be made with grit, noise and attitude. That's Philly!


I’m purposely keeping this place anonymous, but if you watch any reels, that bread is a dead giveaway.


Definitely check it out. It really is fundamentally perfect.




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